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THE MORNING AFTER:
Andrew Coimbra FW'15
Text: Diego Armand
Photos: Barbora Simkova



Toronto-based menswear designer Andrew Coimbra recently showed his FW 2015 collection at TOM Fashion week in Toronto. The collection, cheekily titled “Sorry, not Sorry: A Canadian dilemma,” explored the subtleties of Canadian social and physical landscape through using aerial iceberg perspectives and extreme cold weather mapping patterns (as inspiration for the prints), and the notorious use of the word "sorry" (as said by Canadians) as major sources of influence.

The show’s styling emphasized on layering, jackets were cropped short to show multi layer t-shirts and the use of playful prints were contrasted with slick fabric choices, and an "almost military-meets-thug aesthetic", showing a fresh, new attitude; what he calls "a Canadian confidence.’’ (READ MORE)




While it was still fresh in his mind, we interviewed him the day after the show to reflect on what just happened. It can be difficult to identify your feelings so soon after such a personal and stressful experience like showing a collection. After months of preparation and lead up, at the blink of an eye, it's over, so we decided to poke at him the next day to share his thoughts.



P: What were you doing backstage during your show?

AC: Keeping tabs on everything pretty much. I had SUCH a good team with me, so I didn't really need to run around like crazy. I had my stylist and interns on top of making sure the looks were presentable, a great hair and make up team provided by American Crew and Inglot. Basically I just had to go back and forth to ensure that things were in order.


Coimbra finalizing looks before the show.


Hair and grooming notes and inspiration.

P: Tell us about the grooming notes:

AC: Well, at first I wanted to do cornrows and baby hairs, but then Givenchy did it, and I didn't want my collection to feel like it was relying on one "culture", so I thought having the drawn back hair would be a nice balance of wearability and casual cool. The toques were the driving force behind getting the single thug undertones of the collection across. In terms of make up, just a clean, simple, and sincere look, nothing dramatic or too exaggerated.


P: And the show music?:

AC: My great friend and talented DJ Max Mohenu got on board to help create the soundtrack. The feeling I wanted was something unapologetic, dark, and definitely hip-hop. We ended up throwing tracks back and forth at each other until there was a really great flow of unexpected things, like this great, low-key remix of an FKA Twigs track and a random remix of "Only U" by Ashanti.

The idea was to really drive home the nu thug-appeal of the collection, but keep the dark, edgy vibes.


P: How much of this collection did you execute by yourself, 100%?

AC: No, this season I found a third party wholesaler that produced roughly 10% of the pieces in the entire collection. Otherwise I designed, drafted and created the graphic prints for the collection myself, and cut and sewed each piece with the assistance of my awesome friends and more recently interns.


What were you thinking as soon the show was over?

As soon as it was over I thought how lucky I was to have such great help - and such amazing models, which makes a big difference. I also was SUPER hungry so I couldn't wait to unload the collection from backstage and scarf down some tacos which I 100% did. Twice.


P: Describe the morning after? What did you think as soon as you woke up?
What did you do the next day?


AC: Hahaha - the morning after I went to work! I work full time so that was interesting to say the least. My colleagues congratulated me, and over the course of the day I got so many e-mails, messages, texts and instagram likes (my favourite!) - so it was nice to feel the support


P: What are your thoughts on keeping a balance of a full time job and executing your collection?

AC: It's interesting. I definitely feel like I'm leading a "double life" to some degree; a lot of people at work are unaware that I even design. It's also a challenge because on a good day, it can be tiring - piling the added stress of producing a collection and coordinating all the things around presenting is draining, but I find it fulfilling.



P: Was there anything you would have done differently about the show?

AC: I definitely would have sooner enlisted the help of some of my friends, or coordinated having interns sooner to help with the production of the garments to take the stress off of me a little more... I think that was a weak point.


P: What's your next step?

AC: I've already started working on my Spring 2016 collection, so that's exciting! Otherwise, now it's a matter of pushing out the media, getting buyer's interest with the residual buzz from the show, and the look book itself. Plus I'm launching an online shopping platform by the end of the month! I'm pretty excited.


P: #TBT...What does it mean when I say SUSHI clothing? (A T-shirt line you once helmed) What was your objective with it then and how different is your point of view now?

AC: Omg noooo! Hahaha. When I think of Sushi Clothing or when it’s brought up by friends, I think of a time when I was driven to get my career going - and that certainly hasn't changed. I think it laid out important experiences for me that have influenced the way I approach everything from who I work with, and why I do what I do. It's a cringe-worthy moment in my design history, but I don't regret it. It served its purpose, which was to start exposing my name as a designer with commercial, digestible garments; à la the first few seasons of House of Holland. I wanted it to be a small launching pad to gain traction in order to up my brand, and to a degree I think it worked. A lot of the followers on the Andrew Coimbra collection Facebook Fan crossed over from the Sushi Clothing, when it had a page.


I'm happy I did what I did, but I'm happier I moved onward and upward.


P: Lastly, any final comments?

AC: Just that I can't wait to show you guys what I've got up my sleeve for Spring 2016!


REELY AND TRULY
Text: MICHELLE YEE
Photos: MAY TRUONG




Filmmaker and photographer Tyrone Lebon started young. At 18, he shot his first film that aired on MTV and was just 19 when his first photos were published in i-D magazine. Lebon is now widely recognized for his editorial and fashion photography, shooting for publications like T (the New York Times Style Magazine) and British Vogue. He’s also shot campaigns for Céline, Moschino and Stüssy, making him very busy and in-demand on the commercial side of the industry. (READ more)




Tyrone Lebon's campaigns for Stüssy (left) & Céline (right).


Tyrone Lebon at the Gladstone Hotel, Toronto


But flashback to November 2013, when he wasn’t sure he was having the career that he’d originally set out to have, so Lebon took some time away from accepting commissioned work and set out to do something personal.

In partnership with Grolsch Film Works, Lebon’s latest project, Reely and Truly, is a 30-minute documentary in which Lebon explores of the nature of photography, its purpose and its process. While the short film itself has been presented on its own, Lebon also notes it is an “extended trailer” for a larger body of work which will eventually include a book of photographs, texts and a DVD featuring film portraits of the two dozen or so photographers featured in the film, including Jurgen Teller, Nobuyoshi Araki, Petra Collins, Sean Vegezzi, Nick Sethi, Fumiko Amano and Lebon’s own fashion photographer father, Mark Lebon.



stills from Reely & Truly


Using a wide spectrum of film mediums (ranging from 8mm to 70mm and everything in-between), as well as a variety of inventive and time-intensive techniques, Lebon has created a moving meditation on photography’s meaning.

In a post-screening chat in Toronto with a very chill Tyrone Lebon, as well as New York City-based photographer Nick Sethi (also featured in the film), I was able to dig a little deeper into their ideas and beliefs about photography. Of the many fleeting perspectives offered in the film, a John Berger quote struck a chord: “The camera relives us of the burden of memory.” I wanted to know what they thought of that statement.


Moments from the post-screening/opening of Lebon's photography exhbition "a lie about a lie; a truth about The truth" on until March 29th at the Gladstone Hotel.



“I think it’s really important as a human to see (photography) as therapy, a tool to process ideas and memories and thoughts. And when I look back at the pictures, they’re symbols. And there’s truth. It’s powerful. There are emotions and an idea of something; a trigger that takes you back to that place,” said Lebon.

Sethi went further and said: “It expands what people think is possible. A photo can freeze something that doesn’t seem possible but it was possible for one second. That’s real but to see it at exactly that moment… it stretches the limits of possibility.”

-Reely and Truly was screened at the Gladstone Hotel on February 4th in conjunction with a photographic exhibition, "A lie about a lie; a truth about The Truth" curated by Lebon himself that will be on display at the Gladstone Hotel until March 29th .


Video: LIBERATE
Director: Paolo Azarraga
Asst. Director: Rami Accoumeh
Cinematographer: Chris Lew
Styling: Diego Armand
Hair & Makeup:
Aveda Canada Creative
Models:
Monty (NEXT Canada) + Samantha (Plutino)



A special short fashion film project in collaboration with the Aveda Canada Creative Team. Clothing provided by Greta Constantine, Sandro, Pink Tartan & Topshop.






Editorial: JACKED
Photographer: May Truong
Styling: Diego Armand
Hair : Kristjan Hayden (Aveda/Plutino)
Makeup: Melanie Whitmore (Civello)
Model: Zanana @ Elite
Art Direction: Sarah MacKinnon



Kristjan Hayden gives us the beauty inspo that he lived for this past summer. All paired with clean basics (a word that needs to be re-purposed for the good) A white shirt, black Perfecto, a black Dress and white Chucks. The rest is magic. Clothing provided by Greta Constantine & jewelery provided by Kavut.com



Title image,jacket, BLKDNM. Crop Top, Greta Constantine. Jeans & shoes, Zanana's own.
This page, dress, left by Greta Constantine. Top, right by Greta Constantine. Bracelet, Ina Beissner, and rings, Lynn Bann, both available at Kavut.com


Top, Greta Constantine. Pants, Topman Design.


Shirt, ACNE. Customized Headpiece by Melanie Whitmore & Kristjan Hayden.


Dress left, and bodysuit, right both by Greta Constantine. Left, coil ring, Lynn Ban, bracelet (top), Ina Beissner. Earring & nose-ring (right) custom by Melanie Whitmore.


Custom Headpiece by Kristjan Hayden. Jacket, BLKDNM. Dress, H&M. Bracelet, Ina Beissner.











#WHATWENTDOWN:
KEEPERS OF THE CRAFT
Text: Diego Armand
Photos: Michelle Yee



In late July Perfecto Mag was invited to the Keepers of the Craft event hosted by Pilsner Urquell & Bar Isabel at the first annual Taste of Toronto Festival in the Historic area of Fort York. You tend to forget how much more alive the city is during warm weather months. Summer festivals are the perfect way to remind you to get outside and take advantage of the short-lived heat before we eventually retreat back into our hibernation holes.

Pilsner Urquell’s Keeper of the Craft series is an exploration of true and local craftsmanship and their events celebrate the dedication that comes from wanting to produce the best of your craft. It’s not often we get invited to food and drink events so I was delighted to have the opportunity to experience something new involving one of my favourite restaurants in the city. (Read More)



It was already a great start to the day. It began with a beer! We (photog Michelle Yee, and I) instantly noticed Bar Isabel’s executive Chef Grant Van Gameren, carving up jamón alongside multiple colourful and delicious tapas plates found on their signature menu. But we were wondering why no one was eating?

If you haven’t been to Bar Isabel yet, it’s probably because you haven’t been able to make a reservation. It’s the best mix of casual dining with a mixed crowd that still makes you want to put some effort in how you look. It could also be why it’s still one of the most talked about (and booked solid) restaurants in the city. But most importantly it's the Spanish tapas style menu that will make you want to crave the place after your first visit.


Bar Isabel's executive chef, Grant Van Gameren carves Jamón Iberico de Bellota.

Bar Isabel was born after Grant spent a two-month long trip to Europe (the first time he travelled out of the country since the age of 16). After travelling to Copenhagen and Italy he eventually landed in Spain, where he fell in love with the people, the architecture and most importantly the food and the approach to social eating. Since then he’s been a handful of times and always brings back new inspiration to the Little Italy-located hot spot.

It turns out our interactive experience was a casual Pincho competition. Pinchos are small snacks eaten in bars in San Sebastian, Spain. They are made of ready-to-eat ingredients stacked on a slice of bread held together by a skewer (the word actually means spike). They definitely look and taste better than I could ever describe, especially when you have the choice of using delicious elements like cured meats, cheeses and canned seafood direct from Spain. Van Gameren emphasized that canned seafood is a cherished ingredient in Europe and is much more fresh (and pricier) than the Canadian selection. We were lucky to have had him include some examples from his very recent to Spain.


Historic Fort York (left), our Pincho ingredients (right.)

We were then put into smaller groups and encouraged to use every ingredient and make a mess big with napkins as they wanted this to be the ultimate hands-on experience. The refreshing unfiltered Pilsner Urquell helped to get our creative juices (and confidence) flowing. Some pinchos were sky-high and mouth-watering.

I have to admit a bit of anxiety kicked in when I found out we would be competing with food. Although I'm a huge fan of great food (and food TV) I would definitely categorize myself as a novice when it comes to making it. But this was more about creative assembly, making sure the right flavours and textures were combined, with a serious element of presentation added in.

I opted for a simple breakfast-sandwich approach of jamón, quail egg and tomato with a pickle on top of a slice of bread. Once we were finished we had to present our best pincho on a platter and eagerly wait for Grant to pick the best in show. More importantly, once the prize pincho was selected we had to finish whatever ingredients left at our workstation. Don’t mind if we do, as long as there was cold beer to wash it down.


Group Green's pinchos in the running.


Former Canadian Olympic volleyball player Martin Reader stacks his submissions.

What stuck out the most was that when I ran into Sidewalk Hustle’s Hawley Dunbar earlier in the day I asked her if she was ready to make some food, and instead she told me she was “ready to win.” And that she did! I was fortunate enough to eat her pincho and it was definitely worthy of her proud, winning smile. She won dinner for two at Bar Isabel, but I wonder if it includes a guaranteed reservation?


Sidewalk Hustle's Hawley Dunbar's winning smile with Grant Van Gameren (also pictured with Tristan Banning in top left), Harry Rosen's Adam Martin (far right.)

At Perfecto we mostly like to discuss ideas of style and fashion within our lifestyle but what really spoke to us from an experience like this was this idea of true collaboration (this time, a top notch but still casual restaurant mixed with a long standing beer company) but also the idea of preserving hands-on experiences and showing that loving what you do can come from passion and the little details you put into it. – Diego Armand

Bar Isabel is at 797 College St, Toronto, (416) 532-2222 @bar_isabel





NEW SUBMISSION:
ALL I CAN DO IS
LOVE YOU TO PIECES

Photos: Patrick Lacsina
Styling: Patrick Lacsina
Grooming: Mark Jordy Gonzales



Models: Sam Freedberg (Elmer Olsen/IMG), Mac (Elite), Jordan Radics (Push), Hari and Andrew (Spot 6)
Clothing Provided by: H&M, Joe Fresh, Levi’s, One Teaspoon Awesome, Sister Lane, Topman, Topshop, Your Neighbors, Zara.

 
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